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Lawns

Warmer weather means that it's time once again to tackle the lawn. Whether you have a monocultural lawn or a flowering one, some lawn care is universal.

Pass on the Grass
courtesy ARAcontent

Creeping Perennials are Ornamental, Functional, and Low-maintenance Substitutes for Traditional Turf Lawns

A welcoming, lush and green lawn is something to be proud of, but the challenges of maintaining such a lawn can be tough for the greenest thumb. Where traditional turf fails in the landscape, using creeping perennials is an alternative that is both ornamental and functional.

“Almost every homeowner has an area in the landscape where grass just won’t grow,” says Frances Hopkins, founder and CEO of Under A Foot Plant Company. “Creeping perennials provide the solution for these problem areas.”

Creeping perennials should not be likened to common groundcovers, though it is easy to confuse the two. “The difference is definitive,” Hopkins says. “Groundcovers grow much larger at 12 to 24 inches and do not make for a pleasant walking surface. Creepers will grow only about 2 to 4 inches creating a pleasant, low visual plane typically associated with a lawn, plus they are sturdy enough to handle foot traffic.”

Stepables, Hopkins’ line of more than 140 creeping perennial varieties, provide solutions for troublesome landscapes. “Creeping perennials have thousands of tiny, compact root nodes that firmly grasp the soil,” Hopkins says. “As often as you step on them with the soles of your feet, they will vigorously take root; the more they are walked on, the faster they will creep across the landscape space.”

Plant Selection
First, it’s important to decide how much you are going to use the planted area. “Foot traffic and function are among the most important considerations when selecting lawn replacement alternatives,” Hopkins says. This is why she has categorized Stepables into three usage groups -- for light, moderate and heavy foot traffic areas. Light foot traffic means someone will be walking on the creeping perennials one to two times per week; moderate is one to two times per day, and heavy is three or more times per day. When choosing plants, the denser a plant, the more traffic it will take.

Therefore, a list of specific areas including expected levels of walking and strolling is a good, initial means to a successful change from grass to this type of planting. Curb appeal is another important consideration related to improving a home’s landscape and overall appearance. “Think about the elements of decor -- brick, slate, concrete, paint color, and color schemes,” Hopkins says. “Make plant choices that work well with the surroundings.”

With these considerations in mind, the next step is choosing the right plants for the area’s environmental conditions. Hopkins says the No. 1 thing to look for is sun to shade ratio and where the light hits. Next, homeowners are able to find out their soil quality by taking a sample to a local garden center for analysis. Based on the results, garden center employees can help choose a soil amendment, which ideally should be something with excellent drainage. Correct drainage is described as allowing an appropriate amount of water absorption by the plant’s roots, while also permitting excess water to be drained away from the plant.

The Turf Transition
Making the transition from a conventional grass lawn to one with creeping perennials takes planning. Be sure you choose the proper plant for the area and function, and one that has plenty of availability from the local garden center. Next, determine the density of the plants. Spacing them 12 inches apart, for example will require fewer plants, but they will take a year or more to fill in and need a bit of maintenance. Spacing plants just 2 inches apart will require more plants, costing more. Deciding how dense to plant creeping perennials depends on how much money is in the budget and if instant gratification is a priority.

The next step is removing the sod, and tilling and amending the soil with high-drainage components. Once the bed is ready, consider placing a slow-release fertilizer at root level. “Do not place fertilizer directly on the plant because this will burn the foliage,” Hopkins says. To avoid hand weeding, homeowners may opt to apply a ground cloth or pre-emergent herbicide, though creeping perennials naturally inhibit weeds. For best results, plant creeping perennials even or just above the soil line, but never below. Planting below the soil line will cause water to collect and, ultimately, drown the plants, Hopkins says.

Step On It
The final step is just that -- gently step on each plant to set it in place and get it started growing. “Believe it or not, gently stepping on each new plant actually attaches the roots to the soil line. In about three days, little roots will emerge from the nodes,” Hopkins says. As with traditional lawns, the more thought, planning, effort and care that homeowners put into installing a bed of creeping perennials, the more it will pay off in the end with the long-term benefit of a beautiful, functional landscape with far less maintenance and more time to simply enjoy it.

Product Highlight:
LazyMan Liquid Gold

Spring. Back outside again to tackle the lawn. It seems the grass is always greener right next door, but that doesn't have to be the case this year.

The real secret to a great looking lawn is the soil. The three most common tasks to accomplish this are: aeration, dethatching and soil conditioning.

This spring you can accomplish all three of these time-consuming tasks with just one simple step and very little effort. LazyMan Liquid Gold is a brand new spray-on all-natural product that aerates, dethatches and conditions the soil.

The product covers 100 percent of your lawn, is chemical-free and actually adds nutrients, increases much-needed airflow and boosts the earthworm population underground. This revolutionary product will enhance your soil creating that healthy foundation your grass needs to grow healthy and green.

Remember: if you neglect spring lawn care and preparation you could end up paying for it the rest of the year. The good news? This year, Lawn Care's gone Lazy. Visit www.Outsidepride.com for your lawn and garden needs.

PERSONAL NOTES

Got Weeds? Rent a Goat!

Goat

Yes, in some parts of the country there are actually rent-a-goat businesses. Goats do a terrific job of clearing brush, poison oak and ivy, poison sumac, and brambles.

The herder confines the goats to an area. The goats are then allowed to consume all the weeds in that area before moving to the next. I have witnessed this process first-hand in my Grandmother's back yard.

The goats made quick work of clearing her fence of vines and poison sumac. She even commented that the goats did a better job than the weed killer she had used in the past.

-- Corrie Reed

Healthy Lawn Tips

Many people set their mowers to lower setting in an effort to mow less. This practice can actually harm the lawn by making it dry and more prone to weeds. A better practice is to set the mower's blades to the highest setting. Longer grass shields the soil from the sun, helping it retain its moisture. It's harder for weeds to penetrate a thicker lawn and germinate too.

Mow when the clippings will be one inch or less. Grass clippings of this size can be left to decompose and nourish the lawn. Longer clippings can damage or ever kill the grass and should be raked. So, mow more often to avoid raking.

Keep a keen eye out. Pull weeds as they tend to spread quickly. Address bare spots by sprinkling them with grass seed and covering with straw.

Lawns generally need one inch of water per week. You can measure by putting a marked container in the yard. Deep watering helps promote deep root growth which is less easily damaged. This is usually achieved best by moderate watering over 3 or 4 days, but it may not be needed if there has been adequate rainfall. When you do water, do it between 5 and 10 am when evaporation loss is lowest.

Did you Know?
The emission standard for small engines were tightened in 1999 - this includes lawn mowers. If you own a mower manufactured before this date consider replacing it. Ellen Sandbeck states in her book Organic Housekeeping that "an older gas mower produces almost as much air pollution in an hour as a new car does in two days."

The First Lawn Mower
Courtesy Wikipedia.org

The first lawn mower was invented by English engineer Edwin Beard Budding in 1827. Budding's mower was designed primarily to cut the lawn on sports grounds and expensive gardens as a superior alternative to the scythe. His patent of 25 October 1830 described "a new combination and application of machinery for the purpose of cropping or shearing the vegetable surfaces of lawns, grass-plats and pleasure grounds." The patent went on to state, "country gentlemen may find in using my machine themselves an amusing, useful and healthy exercise."

It took ten more years and further innovations to create a machine that could be worked by donkey or horse power, and sixty years before a steam-powered lawn mower was built. In an agreement between John Ferrabee and Edwin Budding dated May 18, 1830, Ferrabee paid the costs of development, obtained letters of patent and acquired rights to manufacture, sell and license other manufacturers in the production of lawn mowers. (The agreement is housed in the Stroud Museum).

One of the first Budding and Ferrabee machines was used in Regent's Park Zoological Gardens in London, in 1831.